At his Residenz in Aschau, the phenomenally successful Heinz Winkler has been at the pinnacle of German cuisine for 20 years.
Heinz Winkler has left a lasting mark on gourmet cuisine in Germany – from starting out at Tantris to building up Residenz Heinz Winkler, his accomplishments have been extraordinary and he has influenced a whole generation of chefs. He quickly developed his own signature 'cuisine vitale', a classically based, produce-centred style of cooking, with the aim of presenting the finest ingredients as naturally as possible; in Winkler's words, 'to honour and ennoble' the food. This resulted in wonderfully light cuisine featuring highly flavoursome but not heavy sauces, with particular emphasis on herbs and vegetables, long before they became fashionable in the wake of the Scandinavian trend. Winkler's cuisine is contemporary and succeeds in delivering the maximum amount of flavour from only a few elements on the plate, which has always been his maxim.
Most of Winkler's dishes are astoundingly simple, but that is precisely what makes them distinctive. With his sturgeon fillet / lightly smoked / wasabi / shiso cress , the lightly smoked notes of the succulent piece of sturgeon harmonise wonderfully with the underlying, perfectly judged heat of the wasabi cream, brilliantly underpinned by the herbal shiso cress and texturally accented with a little keta caviar. Another masterpiece is his lardo-wrapped scallop in a fabulous but not overly dominant truffle broth and quinoa – Winkler gives the iodinous, nutty scallop a rustic cloak without overwhelming it – brilliant!
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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