On the island of Sylt, Jörg Müller has created a bijou hotel containing two restaurants. In his gourmet restaurant he cooks the finest classic cuisine, crafted to absolute perfection.
Jörg Müller is an important master chef who has massively influenced high-end gastronomy in Germany, particularly during his time at the legendary Schweizer Stuben in Wertheim. Müller is still a staunch defender of perfectly crafted classic cuisine, which he has gradually modernised over time, for example by introducing light olive oils instead of butter. Ever since the start of his career, Müller has approached food holistically. In both his restaurants he serves almost every part of the animal in the meat dishes, giving his cuisine a certain rusticality that he masterfully finesses in his gourmet establishment. As well as his specialities, his iconic pâtés and terrines, Müller concentrates on the high-quality regional produce found in abundance on and around Sylt.
From Morsum, for example, comes the hare, which Müller hangs for 14 days and serves in two ways – civet of haunch à la royale and tender-pink saddle in a light almond crust. As accompaniments, he serves individually blanched Brussels sprout leaves and handmade spätzle noodles – top-class cuisine needs nothing more if the very finest ingredients are prepared with such care and precision. Müller also favours unusual combinations such as calamaretti and lamb chitterlings with julienne vegetables and seaweed, a beguiling, intensely rustic creation that succeeds because of the duality of the protagonists; their different mouth feel is wonderfully dramatic.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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