On Süllberg hill in Hamburg, Karlheinz Hauser has created an impressive gastronomic empire featuring three restaurants, two bars and a hotel, with excellent contemporary cuisine served at the Seven Seas gourmet restaurant.
Formerly sous-chef to Eckart Witzigmann at his legendary Aubergine, the years since 2002 have seen Hauser gradually extending the Wilhelminian ensemble on Süllberg hill in Blankenese into one of the best gastronomic addresses in Hamburg. As well as being a dynamic entrepreneur, in his gourmet restaurant he excels with an exciting style of classic cuisine enhanced by contemporary and surprising accents. Every dish has its own little wow moments, which is what gives Hauser's cuisine its individuality – these are often achieved with pronounced use of acidity that run through his menus like an idée fixe.
In his scallop & crab with eucalyptus, soya grissini, Ossetra caviar and Granny Smith apple , the acidity of the apple and the eucalyptus snow flashes brightly, allowing the scallop carpaccio, gently marinated in argan oil and red pepper, to elaborate every aspect of its nutty character. In his loup de mer & mildly smoked lobster with yuzu, carrot and radish , Hauser brilliantly fans out the flavour spectrum with his finely judged yuzu and the smoky flavours of the lobster, which are equally well incorporated. The result is a more sculpted, lighter dish with the drizzled beurre blanc allowed to shine in a new light. Generally speaking, Hauser cooks intensely flavoured, classically based cuisine with modern accents, commendably focusing on fine craftsmanship and outstanding ingredients rather than chasing new trends. His restaurant is absolutely worth checking out, not least for the spectacular view across the Alster lake.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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