Schwarzwaldstube in Baiersbronn: Harald Wohlfahrt cooks to a superlative standard

The Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube Tonbach has been attracting food lovers from all over the world for decades – Harald Wohlfahrt wows guests with his highly pared-down haute cuisine.

Three Michelin stars have been twinkling above the Schwarzwaldstube at Hotel Traube Tonbach in Baiersbronn for twenty years without losing any of their brilliance. On the contrary, Harald Wohlfahrt's virtuoso food is now more subtle and more assured than ever. Wohlfahrt's little strokes of genius – his talents for turning apparently simple dishes into unforgettable gastronomic experiences – provide moments that will be remembered years down the line. His cuisine is centred on the highest-quality ingredients, prepared in ways that retain their character and allow them to develop the full spectrum of their natural flavour. Rather than creating structural works of art on the plate, Wohlfahrt restricts himself to just a few accents and lets the food speak for itself.

At first glance, for example, his marinated frog's legs in tempura with avocado and coriander dip seem unspectacular, but the first bite reveals how his perfectly judged tempura allows the tender succulence of the frog's legs to chime brilliantly with the slightly iodine taste of the finest veal – everything else is incidental. We kneel in reverence! Equally sensational is his stuffed red mullet with nori seaweed on a light escabeche bouillon and caper pesto, in which the underlying mediterranean trilogy cannot be bettered – this is the ultimate in produce-centred cuisine. Stéphane Gass's outstanding wine expertise and Ansgar Fischer's impeccable service make dining at the Schwarzwaldstube a gastronomic experience which is well worth the trip.

© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann

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