Martin Fauster at the Königshof gourmet restaurant reserves the limelight for the character of the finest ingredients, restrains his flavours and creates extremely subtle food.
Martin Fauster has been at the Königshof, where the gourmet restaurant offers spectacular views of Munich's Karlsplatz square or 'Stachus', since 2004. He has succeeded in perfecting the virtue he learned from Hans Haas – the art of omission and paring down to the essentials – thereby developing a style that is entirely his own. Fauster believes in letting the ingredients take pride of place and in using the most delicate preparation techniques to bring out their full character. He seasons sparingly, using as little salt as possible, and his flavours do nothing more than support his main ingredient, lifting it to a higher plane. Fauster's classic-based, technically brilliant cooking is one of the most concentrated produce-centred cuisines in Germany.
One outstanding and quintessentially tart dish is his oyster with apple must and bacon, in which he stuffs the oyster with poached apple to give it more substance and more character. This is accompanied by a lightly whipped apple must, whose gently fermented tartness widens the scope of the iodine-acidic interplay. Another illustration of Fauster's style is his scallop with avocado, white walnut and mushrooms, in which the scallop is very briefly grilled and served almost unmediated. The scallop's distinct taste is wonderfully brought out – enthroned if you will – by the interaction between the sweetness of the avocado and the nuttiness of the walnut. Whisper-thin slices of mushroom give the whole creation a pleasing, earthy foundation.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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