Patrick Bittner, chef de cuisine at the Français at Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof, successfully performs the balancing act of delighting his traditional clientele as well as catering for increasingly ambitious food lovers.
When Patrick Bittner, who also competes in triathlons, was awarded his first Michelin star in 2009, he began to really swim free – making his classic French cuisine more individual and more expressive. Bittner gives his dishes a lighter feel by integrating fresh and slightly sweet accents that run through his menus like an idée fixe. The quality of the pâtisserie has also seen a meteoric rise since Bittner appointed Oliver Nähe, Gault Millau pâtissier of the year in 2012. This award is fully merited – Nähe's creations for the dessert course are often groundbreaking and bring out the best in regional produce, as anyone who tries his splendid variation on apples from the Schneider fruit farm will agree.
Bittner's exceptional goose liver interpretations are always served as terrines with a uniquely layered robe in a surprising but logical context. One masterpiece is his textured variation on elderberry, yoghurt and green pepper, which neither overwhelms nor oversweetens the goose liver but gives it backbone with a fine sweet-sour structure. Bittner's signatures invariably include sophisticated imperial caviar dishes in an exciting, innovative context, currently for instance Caesar breakfast with quail egg and beef tea, which makes a magnificent setting for the caviar. Impeccable service under Nils Blümke and a terrific wine list complete the experience.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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