Following his move to Mannheim , Juan Amador is seamlessly continuing the accomplished cuisine he was known for in Langen and captivating guests with his highly individual flavour combinations.
Juan Amador has moved his restaurant from a small half-timbered building in the quiet town of Langen to the former Schildkröt site where Caroline Baum used to run Amesa, Amador's acclaimed second restaurant. This light, futuristic atmosphere is a much better match for Amador's style – the relaunch seems to have done him good and he seems more mature. In a slight change of concept there are two menus (Retrospective and Snapshot), each with essentially five courses but peppered with all kinds of treats, though these are less substantial than in Langen. In this respect, Amador is pursuing a path he had already begun, focusing on the menu dishes themselves – and with virtuoso skill. Amador's food always reflects his sure instinct for unusual harmonies of flavour, accentuated and elevated to a higher plane by the textures of outstanding produce. And now he is introducing even more purity and focus – a gastronomic arrangement at its very best.
The Retrospective menu includes the legendary carabinero shrimp with cauliflower textures, nougat and lime, which unfurls an exciting duality of sweetness and acidity, and is wonderfully tactile, especially the cauliflower couscous. With his langoustine, green apple, goat's cheese, duck liver and apple seed oil , Amador has fine-tuned the duck liver, apple and goat's cheese combination that he used to serve in Langen by reducing the contrast in temperature and integrating a bridge – the langoustine – between the sweet and the acidic elements.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann /
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