Owner Berthold Bühler has lured two highly talented chefs to the Essen Résidence. As soon as they were ensconced, guests started raving about their modern creations.
Berthold Bühler has pulled off a wonderful coup. Erik Arnecke and Eric Werner, both appointed as chef de cuisine, have been natural partners since cooking together previously at the Résidence. They perfected their skills under Sven Elverfeld (Arnecke) and Heiko Antoniewicz (Werner). The duo work intuitively, like right hand and left hand, and have brought an undogmatic approach to their new environment that is highly impressive. Their food is lightly cooked and arranged transparently on the plate, allowing the quality of the ingredients to shine through. Stylistically, Arnecke and Werner take a modern, structuralist approach, although they are sparing rather than liberal in their use of textural declinations or deconstructions.
In their foie gras at the zenith of a moon landscape with pear and goat's cheese, Arnecke and Werner demonstrate their exceptional understanding of how to build up layers of flavour. A hemisphere stuffed with goose liver and pear is contextualised by graduated pear and goat's cheese in a variety of textures and further accented with candied unripe walnuts – adding excitement and deepening the profile of the overall composition. A simpler choice is the Lake Constance whitefish (which rarely appears on gourmet plates) with caviar, beetroot and parsley. Gentle seasoning allows its full character to play out, and the caviar and beetroot accents suit it extremely well. Bravo! A visit to the new Résidence is a must.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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