In just three years, Christian Jürgens and his team had put Überfahrt gourmet restaurant at the pinnacle of cuisine in Germany.
Christian Jürgens is driven, in the positive sense, and is constantly working on himself and his repertoire. Since starting at the Überfahrt – part of the Zur Althoff Hotel & Gourmet Collection – in summer 2008, he has continuously been honing his signature and crystallising his profile. This development has allowed him to discard unnecessary ballast and to concentrate on his first-class cuisine, which is always a drama of flavours and intensity. You almost want to applaud between each act of his exceptionally well-designed menus, so perfect are his harmonies of flavour, the surprising little accents and the sheer archetypal taste of his food.
Even for the amuse bouche, Jürgens conjures up a jellied barley soup with an espuma of Grisons beef, in which he conceals an egg yolk and dried Grisons beef. This simply cannot be bettered. Equally sensational is his Thistle – rabbit saddle confit, artichoke, barigoule, herbs, hazelnut, in which the rabbit is gently cooked at the table in flavoured oil at 80 degrees, wrapped (in the kitchen) in a delicate coating of herbs and finely chopped hazelnuts, then served with an artichoke filled with barigoule cream and a wonderful artichoke sugo and herbs – divine! Another dish with the same depth of taste is Jürgens' plaice – Breton plaice, lettuce, shiitake, roast onion bouillon, coriander, in which the meaty quality of the plaice is taken to a new level by the balanced interaction of the superb roast onion bouillon, the earthy lettuce and the umami-ness of the mushrooms.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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