Meierei Dirk Luther: high-end classic French cuisine with modern accents

Dirk Luther has taken his Restaurant Meierei at Alter Meierhof Vitalhotel in Glücksburg on the Baltic Sea to the pinnacle of German cuisine.

After a solid, classic apprenticeship in Hamburg's finest restaurants, Dirk Luther has constantly updated his classic style of cooking. The integration of new cooking methods, light, natural sauces, variations in texture and temperature to intensify the arc of suspense and the broadening of the flavour spectrum are the cornerstones of his food, which is and always has been produce-centred cuisine par excellence. This continued development has resulted in increasingly well-defined and more exciting structural flavour and texture combinations without overwhelming the palate. A few well-chosen accents set off the finest ingredients to perfection on the plate.

One illustration of the craftsmanship and precision that Luther and his team bring to their task is his mackerel / celeriac / mustard gherkins. The mackerel is briefly grilled then cooked in clarified butter to retain all its wonderful succulence. Next, Luther adds a natural cucumber bouillon, lightly sautéed fjord shrimps, a gherkin vinegar jelly, celeriac purée, a little deep-fried shrimp shell for texture, braised cucumber, cress and marinated gherkin pearls. The resulting interplay between the sour, subliminally sweet, vegetable and herbal notes supports the flavour of the mackerel wonderfully, with the shrimps further underlining its iodinous character. Even more multifaceted is his lobster / nutmeg pumpkin / shallot, which elicits a fabulously intense lobster/pumpkin duality from a variety of lobster and pumpkin structures.

© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann

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