Romans, bishops and carnival antics: Mainz

Mainz, the state capital of Rhineland-Palatinate, is famous for its university, its Roman heritage and as a media centre, as well as its Romanesque cathedral, the Gutenberg printing press and the Rhineland carnival. The people of Mainz can look back on a proud history spanning almost 2,000 years, but they do so with equanimity. Among the city's rich cultural heritage is a well-established tradition of wine growing, which just makes Mainz all the more attractive.

Where even the confessional can be fun

The baroque palaces with their skilfully restored exteriors and the grand churches exude history. Mainz's old quarter, which stretches out in the shadow of the towering cathedral all the way to Südbahnhof station, still retains traces of the city's medieval and early modern period. During the day, the hustle and bustle centres around the twisting, narrow lanes, with names such as Nasengässchen and Heringsbrunnengasse, and the many small shops, boutiques and cafés surrounding pretty Kirschgarten square with its romantic timber-framed houses and the Marienbrunnen fountain. Almost every district has a busy market, particularly the old quarter and Liebfrauenplatz square. In the evenings, it soon becomes obvious that Mainz is Germany's wine capital. Rheinhessen is the country's largest wine growing region, and a generation of young vintners are achieving extraordinary things with passion, know-how and an assured touch. Locals prefer to enjoy their products in cosy bars and taverns with pious names like Collection Box and Confessional. An indication perhaps that they don't always take their religion all that seriously. The city's nightlife is anything but tame: with thousands of students flocking to the pubs and clubs, there's always a party going on somewhere.

Panoramic Rhine views and an optimistic prince

In contrast to the lively old quarter, the view of the city from the banks of the Rhine is rather distinguished, quiet and almost somewhat austere. It is dominated by two architectural periods: Modernism, as represented by the ensemble which includes the town hall and the Rheingoldhalle complex, and Renaissance/Baroque, with the Neues Zeughaus, the Deutschordenshaus and the Electoral Palace. Both the Rheingoldalle and the palace are also part of Mainz Congress Centre. According to some art historians, the unusually ornate, nuanced structure of the Electoral Palace's facade makes it even more fascinating than Heidelberg Castle. Building the palace in the first place was a fairly optimistic endeavour, as work began in 1627 amid the upheaval of the Thirty Years' War. Not surprising perhaps that it took as long as 125 years to complete.

History on a grand scale: the museums of Mainz

Mainz also offers a wealth of fascinating museums. Among the best are the Gutenberg Museum and the Central Romano-Germanic Museum in the Electoral Palace. The latter's pre-history and early history collections, along with those on Roman and early medieval history, are complemented by large restoration workshops that enjoy an international reputation – even Ötzi the Iceman, found in the Alps, has paid a visit. An even broader spectrum, from the Stone Age to modern times, is covered by Mainz State Museum, founded in 1803 with 36 paintings donated by Napoleon. The Cathedral and Diocesan Museum in the cathedral provides information about the history of the episcopal church and the bishopric. The Museum of Municipal History gives general insights into the development of Mainz, while the Natural History Museum is the largest of its kind in Rhineland-Palatinate. All very serious topics, but fortunately there is also a carnival museum (Mainzer Fastnachtsmuseum) dedicated to the sillier aspects of the city's heritage, which are as much a part of Mainz as the Romans, Gutenberg, the cathedral and the wine.