Cologne, the historical city on the Rhine, is well known for its cathedral, cultural diversity, carnival and kölsch beer. It is a city that draws visitors back time and time again, infecting them with its passion and zest for life. At the heart of Cologne lies the world-famous cathedral, the city's pride and joy that towers over everything around.
The best place to get to know Cologne and its people
To experience Cologne's special appeal for yourself, drop in to one of the traditional and welcoming bars in the area around the Alter Markt and Heumarkt squares or the large brewery taverns scattered throughout the old quarter. Kölsch – the city's signature beer – never stops flowing, Rhineland specialities are served and there is so much friendly and light-hearted revelry that it feels like one big year-round carnival. Each brewery's kölsch has its own individual flavour. The beer waiters, known as Köbes, remain immune to the general merriment: a certain gruffness is the hallmark of a genuine Köbes. They will refill empty kölsch glasses without being asked, so if you have had enough to drink, you need to cover your glass with a beer mat – or don't drain your glass. The best brewery taverns include the Päffgen, Gaffel Haus and Malzmühle – no trip to Cologne is complete without calling in on one of these.
Cologne's pubs and bars – and a pleasant surprise
The scores of clubs, pubs, bars and restaurants are heaving with locals and tourists, young people and students, particularly at the weekends. Popular haunts are the student district Kwartier Latäng, Friesenviertel, Belgisches Viertel, Südstadt and – increasingly – Ehrenfeld, a traditional industrial quarter. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, especially for a city of this size. Happy hour lasts all day in some pubs, which also helps keep prices down, and somehow doesn't seem unusual in Cologne.
Museums in a class of their own and the 'wrong' side of the Rhine
However, there is much more to Cologne than its bars and breweries, as proven by the many significant museums, ArtCologne and other art fairs, a lively art and music scene and Christopher Street Day, Germany's largest event for gays and lesbians. The best-known museums include the Ludwig Museum, the Romano-Germanic Museum with exhibits from 2,000 years of Cologne's history, the Wallraff Richartz Museum, which displays art from the Middle Ages through to the 19th century, the Museum of Applied Art on Wallraffplatz and the Rautenstrauch Joest Museum with its ethnological exhibits. Another good place to study ethnology – albeit from a different angle – is the museum of the city's top-flight football club, 1. FC Köln, at the Müngersdorf Stadium.
After so much Cologne culture and excitement, it's time for some relaxation. One of the largest parks in the city is the Rhine Park, which is situated on the eastern banks of the river and therefore regarded by the locals as on the 'wrong' side of the Rhine. Getting there is an adventure in itself if you take the cable car that departs from the Zoo und Flora botanical gardens and crosses the river. While you're there, ascend to the 100-metre high observation deck of the KölnTriangle skyscraper for what is probably the best view of Cologne's old quarter and cathedral. Although the scenery is mesmerising, don't forget to pick up a souvenir: original Eau de Cologne is as much a part of Cologne as carnival and kölsch.