At Friedrich Franz gourmet restaurant in Heiligendamm, the flagship restaurant at the town's famous Grand Hotel, Ronny Siewert has fine-tuned his own interpretation of contemporary classic cuisine.
Siewert has gradually updated his cuisine since March 2008 whilst remaining loyal to the fine craftsmanship of his classic foundation. His arrangements have become more transparent, he has introduced arcs of texture and has given his dishes a certain lightness by precisely orchestrating the interactions between sweetness and acidity. The finest regional produce has started to feature more and more alongside traditional luxury ingredients, with an increasing focus on vegetables. Siewert and sommelier Aline Nagel are also exploring uncharted territory in their dramatic approach to the menu, aiming to create a shared dialogue between food and wine, and intensifying the flavours as the meal progresses – which is why the menu sequence is sometimes a little unconventional.
One contemporary masterpiece is Siewert's eel trilogy with lovage cream, fruity beetroot and horseradish: Kühlungsborn eel served as cold unagi, lukewarm with apple and coriander, and on caviar scrambled egg. It comes with a fruity reduction of beetroot in citrus oil and grapefruit, the sweetness of which is brilliantly balanced by the lovage cream and the sharp hint of horseradish. This allows the eel to release different nuances of flavour without straying from its harmonious overall context at any point. In his pan-seared goose liver, egg yolk confit, foamed ham butter and apple-vinegar jus, Siewert confits the egg yolk in pure beurre noisette and thereby achieves a greater density of flavour that suits the goose liver to perfection.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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