In Munich's legendary Restaurant Tantris, Hans Haas's purist cuisine is classic, mouthwatering and cooked to the highest standard.
Tantris, the birthplace of Germany's culinary miracle, celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2011. After Eckart Witzigmann and Heinz Winkler, Witzigmann's former sous-chef Hans Haas, who took up the mantle in 1991, has made his own mark whilst continuing to steer the restaurant on its stellar course. With its original 70s interior, impeccable service and dazzling wine list, Tantris is a work of art. The restaurant is almost always fully booked for lunch and dinner, with Hans Haas's team creating remarkable dishes to an amazing standard. His approach epitomises the art of omission, resulting in a classic produce-centred cuisine that is pared-down and almost purist in style and which places great emphasis on flavours, comes straight to the point and is free of diversions on the plate.
One legendary Haas dish is his low-temperature cooked wild salmon with leek purée, caviar and beurre noisette, whose sensational succulence and almost raw texture has inspired a great many of his pupils. This is a totally uplifting salmon experience, wonderfully framed by the herbal notes of the leek purée, the iodinous caviar with its intrinsic acidity, and a piquant touch of beurre noisette. Comparatively simple but then why complicate good food? Haas is also the go-to man for goose liver dishes, be they exquisitely crafted terrines or a pan-fried/poached approach such as lukewarm eel with beetroot and poached goose liver. In essence, this is the epitome of classic, pared-down cuisine, cooked with just a hint of a knowing smile by Tyrolean chef Hans Haas.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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