Claus-Peter Lumpp presents his sublime, flavour-laden classic cuisine at the legendary Hotel Bareiss in Baiersbronn-Mitteltal.
As with many other top German chefs, when Claus-Peter Lumpp achieved his third Michelin star in 2007, it kick-started a tremendous development in which he updated his classic cuisine in many exciting ways. Lumpp's à la carte dishes now focus on the facetted flavours of his outstanding main ingredients, which he views from different angles in order to build up a harmonious circle of flavours. One example is his sole with pumpkin, which he serves in three ways: baked with croutons, as a ragout with verbena and pumpkin seeds and pan-seared with macadamia & barley risotto and red wine shallots. This combined dégustation creates multilayered sweet-sour interactions, allowing the fish to shine in different lights and introducing an element of fun.
The dishes on the tasting menu, however, are more accentuated and reveal a judicious gastronomic drama. The starter of goose foie gras with wild figs and sweetcornis a triumph that is followed by a intensely flavoured lobster with cauliflower, egg and an intense Noilly Prat jus . A Provençal brandade with beurre noisette foam and white alba truffle then adds a further crescendo, which is reinforced by a cassolette of poussin with sautéed lamb's lettuce and quince in preparation for the main event, a Bareiss-hunted saddle of venison. Head pâtissier Stefan Leitner's sweet creations then provide a wondrous climax to this superb interpretation of classic cuisine.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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