In the last few years, Alexandro Pape has come on in leaps and bounds at Restaurant Fährhaus, but there is still some way to go before he reaches his fullest potential.
Developing as a chef is an evolutionary process – when Alexandro Pape gained his second Michelin star at the end of 2010, it was a fresh incentive to keep working on his own signature, driven by his subconscious interpretation of culinary sustainability, which is the bedrock of Pape's understanding of top-notch cuisine.
In his Feinheimisch menu , Pape shines the spotlight on regional produce, designing new taste sensations with creations such as crispy fried pork belly confit with honey dandelion buds, warm marinated dandelion and celeriac purée. The harmony between the gradations of herbal and slightly earthy dandelion notes and the varied textures of the pork belly is simply sensational. Pape's cuisine generally concentrates on three or four core elements without abstract arrangements, which means that his dishes can be eaten with a spoon as well, releasing flavours that remain longer in the memory.
In his Fährhaus menu , Pape presents dishes with slightly more ambitious flavours, such as a cocktail of lightly smoked eel and fried duck foie gras, rhubarb gelée, horseradish mousse and spiced pear strudel, which puts the conventional pairing of eel and goose into a completely new context and adds an intermingling of sweetness and acidity that is more than compelling – simply sublime. He completes his menu portfolio with contemporary, refined interpretations of traditional Sardinian cuisine. These feature in his Sardinian menu, which integrates seamlessly into his overall culinary approach.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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