Helmut Thieltges, who has positioned Waldhotel Sonnora as one of the five best restaurants in Germany, is an excellent ambassador for the brilliance of classic cuisine.
Helmut Thieltges is a German gourmet phenomenon – quietly, discreetly and without great mentors, he has transformed his parents' hotel into a universally acclaimed gourmet restaurant, which receives top ratings in every good food guide. Thieltges is fanatical about the quality of his ingredients; exceptional is just about good enough. He uses these fabulous ingredients to produce clean, extremely subtle and detailed flavours, underlining the character of the original produce whilst ensuring there is one or two surprises for the diner. Thieltge's philosophy could be described as classic cuisine par excellence. It is awesome if a little daunting how self-contained and completely thought-through his creations are – nothing needs adding, nothing could be left out.
Many of his dishes have achieved iconic status, such as his breast of Challans duck à la presse with oriental spiced skin, pan-fried duck foie gras, red cabbage and glazed pears. Thieltges' technique is so precise, so faithful to the raw materials, that it lures the maximum flavour from the succulent bird and caresses it with the gentle accents of the spiced skin – pure perfection. His interpretation of vitello tonnato is equally sublime: Bluefin tuna involtini with Ossetra caviar on tonnato cream – reduced and concentrated in this way, the amazing quality of the tuna sings out. It would be a pity not to also try the region's game specialities, which Thieltges masterfully conjures into culinary classics. In short, the Sonnora is a must for anyone who loves good food.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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