Thomas Kellermann, who gained his second Michelin star in November 2011, has been creating some of Germany's most idiosyncratic flavour-centric cuisine at Hotel Burg Wernberg in the Upper Palatinate.
In only two years at Burg Wernberg, Thomas Kellermann has developed his individual style significantly – perfecting the art of omission, which he learned from his mentor Hans Haas, and concentrating on essential, highly accented core flavours in his dishes. Kellermann uses vegetables in all their variety more extensively than almost any other German chef, and he is not afraid to make traditional accompaniments the focus of his dishes. Authenticity of flavour, which is always of vital importance, is preserved by very delicate cooking and combinations that are meticulously constructed but never seem forced. Kellermann's contemporary, very personal style is based on classic techniques and shows how much fun he has in the kitchen.
His phoenix from the ashes has emerged as one of the defining examples of his concentrated flavours. An ordinary fennel bulb is cooked in an ash salt crust, then liberated from this and arranged on the plate at the table, bursting with self-assurance, gentle sweetness and vegetable simplicity. Fascinatingly, Kellermann serves it with whipped goat's butter and a little eel ice cream, which inverts the traditional relationship between fish and fennel. Equally outstanding is his red cabbage soup with cauliflower espuma and almonds, a truly orgiastic flavour experience. But fish and meat lovers will be in their element too. With game and lamb in particular, Kellermann has shown himself to be a skilled inventor of innovative flavour pairings.
© Prof. Dr. Ingo Scheuermann
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