Essen – making a mark and the joy of innovation

A sense of innovation permeates the city; the seismic shift from its industrial past to its new focus on services, learning, design and healthcare is evident everywhere. Past and present, stories and history between steel and Romanticism, old art and the culture of tomorrow: not contradictions but aspects of a new urbanity that makes the city a natural point of attraction within the Ruhr region.

From iron and steel to eyes and ears for the new and unconventional, for art in public spaces and the art of self-promotion. One example of this is the Culture Trail: 372 blue stones point the way to 82 'city markers', to architecture, installations, light art, sculptures and figures – 82 invitations to smile, marvel, linger and discuss. They lead past the opera house, designed by the famous architect Alvar Aalto, past Folkwang art college, the Grillo Theatre, the Poster Museum and Lichtburg, the oldest cinema in Germany that is still in use, with the largest cinema auditorium.

With its remarkable architectural ensemble of St. John's Church, the minster, the cathedral treasury and the bishop's palace, Burgplatz square in the city centre also offers fine views of the old synagogue and the Peace Church. On Kettwiger Strasse, which became Germany's first pedestrian area in 1958, shopping for anything and everything is the order of the day. The annual Culture Trail festival is held in early summer. Featuring music, theatre, dance and illuminations, it sees Kettwiger Strasse transformed into the longest 'gourmet mile' in the country, much to the detriment of many a diet or good intention.

But Essen also offers a haven of tranquillity and contemplation that enables profound art encounters of a very different kind. The cathedral treasure of Essen Minster contains the Golden Madonna, one of the most important works of art from the early Middle Ages and the earliest known full-relief figure of Mary in the world. This 74cm sculpture was created more than 1,000 years ago, during the reign of Abbess Mathilde. It was carved from poplar wood and is completely covered in fine gold foil. The eyes of the Madonna and her child, crafted from bright blue enamel, are the statuette's most striking feature. It can be seen free of charge at any time when the minster is open to the public.

Objects of a rather more secular nature can be found in the red dot museum. The one thing that these varied exhibits have in common is that they have all been awarded the coveted red dot for their exemplary design. The museum is home to the world's largest exhibition of contemporary design, showing 1,000 products from around the world in more than 4,000 square metres of exhibition space.